My Visit to A 17th Century Spanish Fort
by Andrew Roblin
About five years ago, after reading a description in the estimable "Rough Guide To Jamaica," I spent the night at River Lodge, Robins Bay at what may be our island's best-preserved Spanish fort. According to the "Rough Guide," River Lodge is near the cove from which the last Spanish Governor Don Cristobel Arnaldo de Ysassi* fled Jamaica. It seems likely Ysassi stayed at the fort.
I slept in the fort's turreted tower. My room overlooked a lovely piazza framed by vine-covered walls and centered on a large outdoor fireplace. This Spanish fort, which is believed to have been built in the 17th century, includes several other rooms adapted for travelers and a cool thatched-roof dining area served by a modern kitchen. I had a wonderful breakfast there.
by Andrew Roblin
About five years ago, after reading a description in the estimable "Rough Guide To Jamaica," I spent the night at River Lodge, Robins Bay at what may be our island's best-preserved Spanish fort. According to the "Rough Guide," River Lodge is near the cove from which the last Spanish Governor Don Cristobel Arnaldo de Ysassi* fled Jamaica. It seems likely Ysassi stayed at the fort.
I slept in the fort's turreted tower. My room overlooked a lovely piazza framed by vine-covered walls and centered on a large outdoor fireplace. This Spanish fort, which is believed to have been built in the 17th century, includes several other rooms adapted for travelers and a cool thatched-roof dining area served by a modern kitchen. I had a wonderful breakfast there.
At last notice, River Lodge was run by a friendly German expatriate, Brigitta Fuchsloder (Telephone: 995-3003). [Full disclosure: I like Ms. Fuchsloder. She safeguarded a pair of flippers I forgot at River Lodge, allowing me to retrieve them six months later.]
River Lodge makes for a great rustic getaway for travelers looking to escape the beaten path. I enjoyed the wild, secluded beach within a few minutes walk. A picturesque little stream runs beside the property. And the "Rough Guide" says there are several impressive and seldom-visited waterfalls nearby.
Robins Bay sits between Port Maria and Annotto Bay. Coming from Port Maria, you'll see a bus stop on the left with "Robin's Bay" clearly written on it. The road isn't bad to begin with, but quickly deteriorates--even at election time. Best to take this trip in a vehicle with good tires and a high suspension. I got a flat tire on one of my trips down this road.
Before visiting River Lodge, it's best to call ahead. I dropped in unexpectedly a few weeks ago. The owners weren't around, but a caretaker let me reacquaint myself with this charming and uniquely Jamaican historic site.
--Andrew Roblin
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* GSJ Footnote: In 1657 Don Cristobal Arnaldo de Ysassi led strong guerrilla forces in the interior of Jamaica. He had been appointed the last Spanish Governor of Jamaica. Two expeditions from Cuba came to the north coast to help him. General Doyley attacked both times by sailing around the island from Kingston. He defeated Ysassi near Ocho Rios in 1657 and at Rio Nuevo in 1658, the last named being the biggest battle ever fought in Jamaica. Ysassi continued to hold out until 1660, when the defection of Maroon allies made his cause hopeless, and he and his followers escaped to Cuba in canoes.
Excerpted from "The Geography & History of Jamaica" published by the Gleaner
River Lodge makes for a great rustic getaway for travelers looking to escape the beaten path. I enjoyed the wild, secluded beach within a few minutes walk. A picturesque little stream runs beside the property. And the "Rough Guide" says there are several impressive and seldom-visited waterfalls nearby.
Robins Bay sits between Port Maria and Annotto Bay. Coming from Port Maria, you'll see a bus stop on the left with "Robin's Bay" clearly written on it. The road isn't bad to begin with, but quickly deteriorates--even at election time. Best to take this trip in a vehicle with good tires and a high suspension. I got a flat tire on one of my trips down this road.
Before visiting River Lodge, it's best to call ahead. I dropped in unexpectedly a few weeks ago. The owners weren't around, but a caretaker let me reacquaint myself with this charming and uniquely Jamaican historic site.
--Andrew Roblin
_____________________________
* GSJ Footnote: In 1657 Don Cristobal Arnaldo de Ysassi led strong guerrilla forces in the interior of Jamaica. He had been appointed the last Spanish Governor of Jamaica. Two expeditions from Cuba came to the north coast to help him. General Doyley attacked both times by sailing around the island from Kingston. He defeated Ysassi near Ocho Rios in 1657 and at Rio Nuevo in 1658, the last named being the biggest battle ever fought in Jamaica. Ysassi continued to hold out until 1660, when the defection of Maroon allies made his cause hopeless, and he and his followers escaped to Cuba in canoes.
Excerpted from "The Geography & History of Jamaica" published by the Gleaner
