Logwood and sugar were the major exports in the 18th century from which the locals made their wealth. River traffic on the Black River brought sugar, rum, logwood, coffee, pimento, annotto and other produce of the area to ships anchored in the harbour. It is said that as late as 1915, six or seven sailing boats could be seen in the harbor at any time. Today, the economy is mainly based on fishing, tourism and the retail trade.
The town has a number of FIRSTS:
- The first town in Jamaica to have electric lights- 1839
- Telephone service first began in 1900
- The first car landed in Black River in 1903 for a Mr.H.W.Griffiths of Hodges Pen.
- One of the first race courses - racing was done on the Lower Works property.
In 1837 the Black River Spa was opened to the public with two rooms and two pools. The water rises from a limestone bed next to the Black River. The springs were a part of the Lower Works property and in the days of slavery were used extensively by the Slaves for ailments including rheumatism and intestinal troubles. Up to a few decades ago, staff and boarders at Munro College, Malvern were sent there to” improve their health.”
St. John The Evangilistic (PARISH CHURCH)
The Parish Church of St.John the Evangelist has a tablet on the battlement tower recording the laying of a foundation stone in 1837. However, Lady Nugent in her Diary, describes going to church at Black River in 1802 when the church was “ in a shabby condition” so it may be that the original church (built in 1774 ) was burnt down and subsequently rebuilt.
In the chancel, there is a pair of monuments by the well-known English Sculptor Henry Westmacott. These monuments were erected in 1828 to the memory of Robert Hugh Munro and his nephew Caleb Dickenson who left endowments for the education of “poor children of the Parish.” (Munro College). Also to be seen in the church is a memorial tablet to Duncan Robertson, Custos of the Parish from 1781-1850, bearing the arms of Robertson of Struan who owned Gilnock Hall.
Outside the west door a group of tombstone slabs record typical relationships of slavery times (prior to l834). These slabs commemorate a local merchant – one Duncan Hook, 1741-1779 and four of his children by Elizabeth Duncan – a free Mulatto – who lies beside him.
Emoluments of the Rector at the turn of the 19th century – a Rev. Warren who had an estate at Lacovia, included the labour of some 60 slaves. They were “the property of the church” which received compensation in the some of eighteen hundred pounds sterling for the slaves at the time of emancipation.
Black River is noted for the quantity of its most intricate timber detailing. The High Street has several examples of old style colonnaded timber houses. One such, Magdala, is now a School (but badly in need of repairs). The house was built by the Leyden family at the end of the 19th century when a boom in the logwood trade brought much prosperity to the town.
Waterloo House
Built in 1860 by Thomas Leyden and was his residence. It is now a Guest House. Waterloo House also has the distinction of being the first building in Jamaica to have had electricity installed – some claim even before such a facility was installed in homes in New York.
Invercauld House
Built in 1860 by Patrick Leyden, one of three brothers who arrived in Black River on a ship from Scotland. Armed only with the tools of their trade, the brothers soon made their fortune in the then thriving town which had quintessential Georgian architecture, typical of the turn of the century waterfront homes built in the area.
The house was named after Invercauld Estate in Scotland which was owned by the Farquharson family, one of whom – William Farquharson – also lived at the house with his family. Most of its timbers were shipped in from abroad although the timber floor is of logwood, a timber from St.Elizabeth. The dye from the logwood tree was also used in England to colour the cloaks of the “Lords of the Realm.”
The property was once called ‘THE WILLOWS” as it had a fine line of willow trees. Unfortunately, time has seen their demise.
Invercauld was eventually sold to a Dr. C.D.Johnson, a well-loved and popular member of the community. He was the Head of the Black River Hospital and it is said that from time to time his footsteps can still be heard in the upstairs room of the building !! After Dr. Johnson died, the house was neglected for a number of years then in l990 it was rescued by Dr. Trevor Hamilton, a son of St. Elizabeth and a well-known Business Consultant. His love and dedication to the property marked many years of restoration and improvements following which he re-opened the house as a Hotel which subsequently closed.
It is now a Medical School.
Magdala House
This house also located on the High Street in Black River, was built circa 1880 by Thomas Leyden of the Leyden and Farquharson Shipping Company. The building was constructed by one Adolphus Williams for Mr. Leyden.
The house is of a two-storey design and had inside plumbing with running water for the main bathroom and lavatory upstairs. It has concrete foundation walls which are rectangular and which rise two to three feet above ground. The superstructure is made of wood with coolers at the windows. Liberal use of fretwork on facias and barge boards give the house an imposing appearance, set as it is in extensive grounds.
Mr. Donald Farquharson, who spent most of his boyhood days at Magdala House, wrote the following in 1981:
“The staircase was in every way of a fine design and construction but was a constant source of trouble as the Flemish Oak was not impervious to termites and bits from time to time had to be replaced. The arches in the hall were also like the staircase of Flemish Oak. The pressed paper paneling in the dining room was I recall, in the opinion of my family, the epitome of Victorian nouveau riche bad taste.”
“The dining room had oak flooring. It was a big room with a bow window and no floor board was joined. Each board was cut in England to the exact length required from a length of oak. The verandahs were small and tiled in gaudy Victorian tiles of various mixed shades of brown and yellow. The outer board walls were painted and sanded with white sea sand for preservation.”
Magdala House was purchased by the Roman Catholic Church in 1963 and was used by them as a church and school. The school and church were later closed and the Nuns who stayed there were sent to Kingston and Mandeville.
Subsequently the church used the building as an Orphanage called “Our Lady of Hope Children’s Home.”
A small Chapel and a Dormitory to house the children were constructed on the property.
Today, Magdala House is closed as a school due to the urgent need for repairs to the building.